The Harbor

WARNING: Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity. Both subjective and objective dangers will always be part of every climb. You must take all precautions and carefully evaluate your own ability before you attempt to climb a route. This guide serves purely for educational purposes.

WARNING: Climbing at The Harbor (as well as The Pond, Atlantis, and others) is on private property that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at: queencreekclimbing.com.

ACTUALLY READ THIS SECTION: The crag is fresh and thus it is STRONGLY recommended you wear a helmet.

Please be careful on the upper belay platform with kicking off rocks below.

Description

A small crag on the opposite side of the canyon from The Pond. Named after the distinct ship and dock formation, The Harbor hosts 9 routes involving the distinct Queen Creek Canyon pocket patina while also hosting a high rock quality smooth buttress that host a few harder and more distinct lines. Most of the lines here benefit from the high position on the hillside for more exposure and aesthetics.

Sun: The dock formation is in the shade all day. The ship formation goes into the sun in the afternoon.

Approach

Parking:

Approach (15 minutes):

Don’t like written directions? Here is a GPX file

  1. From the tower in the middle of the parking lot, head down into the stream.
  2. Aim for the talus field that slopes up the hill side, follow it till a trail emerges from the bushes on your left.
  3. Follow the distinct trail until a staircase appears on your right
  4. Follow up the rock ramp and through some grass to a staircase around a boulder (use the secret mono).
  5. Continue across ridge on flat trail to a staircase at the base of an old tower. Follow a rusty cable wire up and to the base of the crag.
Routes (All sport – 8 draws + anchors max)
Ship Formation

This is the formation that distinctly looks like a ship.

Route NameGradeFAEBDescription
The Bow ⭐⭐⭐5.11bSteven Neveadomi, Dec. 2023Steven NeveadomiThe main line on the ship formation. Climb over several lips before reaching the signature no hands rest half way up the route. Decide your fate and fire it up to the chains.
Ocean Man ⭐⭐5.10cSteven Neveadomi,
Jan. 2024
Steven NeveadomiThe squeeze job between Portside and The Bow, this aesthetic line is the easier option for getting on the sexy prow of the ship. A tricky, sharp start results in a lot of side pulls on the arete. Cheat a rest on The Bow or push ahead to the top where the real business lies.
Portside
⭐⭐⭐
5.10aSteven Neveadomi, Marty Moore, Dec. 2023Steven Neveadomi, Marty MooreThe proud face line in the middle of the ship. This line likely has the best movement out of all the lines on the ship formation. A toss up between 5.9 and 5.10a, take the grade you feel represents your experience. Enjoy the dorito hold.
The Minnow
5.7Paul Paonessa, March 2023Paul PaonessaA sweet, short line up the fractured blocks to the lowest part of the deck. A good route for a beginning leader.
The Mast
⭐⭐
5.9Steven Neveadomi, March 2023Steven NeveadomiThe tallest line on the ship formation. Start on some less than ideal side pulls and traverse onto the easy blocky section. Head back over onto the main line for some exposed and thought-provoking movement near the top.
All routes are from left to right respectively.
Dock Formation

This is the block/dock buttress that is below the ship.

Route NameGradeFAEBDescription
CLOSED PROJECT (needs rebolted)5.11b?Steven NeveadomiThis line follows the westmost arete of the dock. This line will likely share anchors with the line to the right or be removed outright.
Cracken ⭐⭐⭐5.11c/dSarah Teater 09/24Steven NeveadomiThe main line up the dock face. This line has amazing movement on finger cracks, hand cracks, a knee bar, pockets, crimps, and more. This might be the best route at the crag.
Keelhaul* ⭐⭐⭐5.12bCharlie BrownCharlie BrownA stunning line on thin side pulls, sloper rails, and thin seams. A proud line and the hardest line on the formation.
CAStaway* ⭐⭐5.11cCassCassThe furthest right line on the rock formation. Distinct pocket pulling on slab to a slight overhang. Another gem of a line on this buttress.
All routes are from left to right respectively.

*I would like to note that the anchors for both these climbs are on a slanted giant detached block. Although I was unable to move the block, I chose not to develop on this. As usual, climb at your own risk.